Living away from Kolkata changed how I look at the city’s street style
Growing up in Kolkata, I never thought much of the big bindis, handloom sarees, heavy silver jewellery and the thick strokes of kajal lining the eyes. These quintessential elements of this city’s street style were too common, too everyday and not exciting to an impressionable mind that believed fashion thrives only in Mumbai and Delhi. We Bengalis (clad in humble kurtas and Kolhapuris), cared more about politics than about styling.
As true as that second part may be, that fact that Kolkata’s sense of style has been on the back burner is a sweeping oversimplification. In fact, the city represents a highly geography-centric styling aesthetic that combines a bohemian spirit with the quirks of living in a hot and humid urban setting.
With my time away from this city (almost a decade now), I have come to see and appreciate this more and more. Every time I want to go home, I always find myself running out of Kolkata-appropriate outfits. (Note: Bangalore always dresses you in jeans and sneakers or bodycons and heels)
Some pondering made me dive deep into what is it that is defines Kolkata-appropriate style?
Silhouettes: The city prefers silhouettes that love the sun and are also aligned to the mildly conservative mentality of this old town. Long, flowy kurtas, maxi dresses, skirts, palazzos and sarees scream Kolkata. Although the younger crowd is now reflecting a changing mentality to dressing, bodycons, jumpsuits and short skirts are rare. Jeans is of course a popular choice amongst all age groups.
Fabrics: Could it be the weather or the rich textile heritage of West Bengal, handloom is a popular choice with all ages groups. Whether sarees or skirts and tops, the porous khadi and breathable cottons are common on Kolkata streets. Even silks are wildly popular but mostly in festive settings. The year-round sultry weather doesn’t leave room for anything but fabrics that feel light on the skin.
Accessories: Look for silver jhumkas, puka shell-adorned jholas or Kolhapuri chappals and chances are you’ll spot them easily on the streets. Chunky statement necklaces are popular too. The college-going Gariahat shopper will tell you the neatly-crafted expensive-looking necklaces are actually available at throwaway prices if you know where to look. While the outfits sway more towards Indian formals, it is the accessories that infuse the bohemian charm to Kolkata’s street style.
However, I will always repent us Bengalis not experimenting much with fresh flowers, given our flora has way too much potential.
Hair and makeup: The bun and bindi go hand in hand, almost everywhere. Whether weddings, college classrooms or rallies, ladies love the practicality of the bun (note: weather is humid) and power of the bindi. The big Bengali eyes almost scream for attention and most women indulge with a generous stroke of kohl. Lip colour ranges from simple nudes to bright hues, all depending on the occasion and season.
The best thing about Kolkata’s style DNA is, the basics never change. The city’s sense of fashion has remained constant through the years and popular with so many generations. It is rarely affected by Bollywood or Hollywood, like the city has forgotten to care about the sparkles on the silver screen. In fact, many movies decode and recreate elements of this unique sense of style every now and then.
(Can you name a few?)
The way I see it, the simplistic sense of style of Kolkata almost passes under the radar of street style watchers. There’s nothing abrupt, shocking or head-turning about it. But if you truly have your eyes on the lanes of this old city, you’ll see Kolkatans are stylish in their own ways and they stick to it with pride.
The eye behind the lens: The images are clicked by Mainak, my baby cousin and a budding photographer who loves to capture abstract frames. I almost bullied him into shooting portraits and he (helplessly) obliged. He’s a man of many hats and full of surprises. On the same day he can fix your home’s wiring issues and treat you to a lip-smacking meal, all by himself. When he’s not clicking pictures, cooking, playing electrician, or studying (rare occurrence anyway), you will find him tending to his feathered friends (he’s a big bird person).
Special thanks: I would like to send a bear hug to Sayani, my cousin and fashionista par excellence, for generously offering her lovely jewellery collection to dress me up for this shoot.
