Traveller Notes: Dar Es Salaam
Wanderlust is an idea we keep coming back to on Good Life Notes, don’t we? The unusual places, queer customs and strange stories from lands far away leave behind an unquenchable thirst to explore more. It has been the effort of this blog to keep bringing to you many such stories from those who live by the idea of wanderlust.
Today, sharing her notes on travel is Alsaba - a wanderer, storyteller and fashionista par excellence - who has just returned from a year-long adventurous stay in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Between working full-time jobs and extensive travelling, she also continues to inspire women with her fine taste in fashion through AbsoluteAlsaba, a venture she started a few years back in Mumbai. Follow her on Instagram to see the world through her eyes as she explores the near and far of wherever she is.
So, over to Alsaba now.
We are ready to be intrigued coz it’s pole pole time on Good Life Notes.
ALSABA SAYS:
Dar Es Salaam is just magical! It feeds your soul with its pristine coastline, laid-back lifestyle and the warmth of its people every day, until you are completely intoxicated by its beauty and slave to its way of life. People in Dar live life pole pole, a Swahili expression that means slowly slowly. There is no rush, no madness and no reason to push and shove, which is why life at Dar is all about being relaxed and content.
I moved there because of a job, but I guess, I found a home there. The fact that my best friend, and husband, Yash was with me on this journey made our stay at Dar even more special.
STAY:
The people are extremely friendly which is why Airbnbs or Couch Surfers are great options for a stay. However, if you want to make it grander here are my picks of hotels in Dar Es Salaam. Mediterraneo or Serena are great options for those visiting the city for the first time. While the former is more of cosy romantic address suitable for couples, the latter is great if you are travelling with a big gang. Mediterraneo is also known for its mind-blowing Saturday night parties at the beach. The costs of stay ranges from US$50 for Airbnbs to about US$500 bigger hotels like Serena. The city has a wide variety of options in all ranges. However, here is an insider’s tip. If you can, stay in the Masaki or Mikocheni areas as these are the most happening parts of the city with restaurants, pubs and lots of hangout options at every corner.
EAT:
When you are in the city, you must have a bite of its favourite staple, ugali. It looks much like idli but is made of maize and served with a piping hot beans or beef stew. It is hard to miss the mamas (old women) selling ugali on the street. And, the best part is, it is quite easy on the pocket too.
If you are looking for an upscale restaurant experience, do head to Cape Town Fish Market, for the choicest of seafood finds in the city and live music that’ll leave you enthralled. A few more favourites for a memorable food experience are Samaki Samaki in the Masaki area, Mediterraneo and Sea Cliff where you can head for lunch and dinner.
This section will remain incomplete without a mention of Mamboz. Pretty much on the top ranking of all travel sites, this restaurant is Indo-Tanzanian cuisine (yes, that’s a thing). The gajjar chicken (spicy masala chicken) here is worth a million bucks.
TRY:
If you are visiting Dar, try to make it to the city during Nyama Choma, especially if you are a foodie. Nyama means fire and Choma means meat, so you can guess what the festival is all about. This is a barbecue and bonfire fest that starts around noon and goes on till the wee hours of the dawn. Taking place once every quarter, it sees a massive participation from the younger crowd. People gather in a field dedicated to the festivities and grill meat and seafood all night.
In case you miss this food frenzy, Dar still has plenty to offer to travellers. There are these tiny sand banks dotting the coastline (mostly 45mins to half hour away), which you can visit if you are a water baby. Book yourself a ride from Slipway Shopping Centre and head out for water adventures like snorkelling, scuba diving and an afternoon of tatá e teté with your marine buddies. If you want to keep some distance from the water, glass-bottom boats are also available at just a USD$ 20-25 rental rates.
Oh and one last thing, against popular word of caution (and wisdom), I’d suggest do give the boda bodas a try while travelling in the city. These are Dar’s bike taxis that’ll put the road rash in Mad Max to shame. The risk is totally worth the thrill!
SHOP:
Take my word on this, Dar will spoil you with its many treasures that you can take back home. Kariakoo, which is much like the Indian version of Chandni Chowk in Delhi, is worth a visit. It is perfect for picking up souvenirs and kanga, a local outfit material. The only tip about shopping at Kariakoo is to negotiate a lot. If some serious shopping is on your mind, make sure you drop by at Slipway for some locally-made handicrafts and designer pieces. And, while you are catching a breath in between your shopping adventures, make sure you don’t miss the sunset at Slipway with a glass of fresh passion fruit juice in hand.
If you are looking at taking back some local handicrafts, do shop at the TCCH – Tanzania Centre for Culture and Heritage, which supports the work of small artists in Tanzania. Paintings, wooden frames, chests, figurines and beaded jewellery are apt souvenirs to take back home from Dar.
Also another interesting thing to take back home are Tinga Tinga paintings. Capturing the way of life at Dar, this painting style was founded and popularised by local painter Mr Tinga Tinga and has become a part of pop culture in the city. However, nothing captures the vibrancy of the African way of life like the beaded jewellery made by the Masaai women. Do pick up some pieces to mix and match with your wardrobe for a funky twist. If you have ambitious shopping plans or are an ardent collector of art, make space for some dho furniture, which are wooden pieces made of the remains of boats. Intriguing, isn’t it?
TRANSIT:
Like all big cities in the world, you’ll find Uber in Dar. If you want a taste of the local transport system, try a ride in the dala dalas (local buses), which remain packed with people for most parts. If you are on a budget, the dala dalas are great. I would, however, still suggest, try a ride on the boda bodas for a hair-raising transport experience (quite literally).
WALLET:
In Dar, a solo traveller can even get through in a budget as low as US$20 a day if they choose public transport and yummy street food. For those with a taste for fancy restaurants, moderate drinking and travel only by cabs, the budget can go up to US$50 for a day.
On a side note, booze is damn cheap and is sold at mom and pop stores!
